Sad moment
What a loss, a man that loved his scarves. He seemed to enjoy them for their sensous qualities and colors.
September 06, 2007
August 24, 2007
Thanks!
I want to thank Peg in South Carolina, Marguerite, Helen,Tracy, fruitbat, Casy, coral-seas, Danielle, Diane, Fiona and of course glennis for commenting! I do know that you are all out there, I do have a site meter on the front page and the bloggng service provides better stats.
I am terribly sorry for the delay in posting comments. I have a spam filter service enabled and it holds all comments including mine for approval. It would be pretty ulgy without this.
My fantasy was that there would be discussion after some of the entries, a bit like this one over at In A Minute Ago.
I have recently been thinking about the time consuming nature of fiber arts. Does this mean that these arts are endangered by todays fast paced life? Would people who spend an hour a day meditating or doing yoga need that if they were doing some repetitive fiber art? Where does the joie de faire come from-- is it hard wired into our beings? Why do we make? Is it the process or product or both that give us the joy? The product is the easist to share with others, is the pleasure in process self-indulgent? Would making things improve non-makers (most people) lives?
August 11, 2007
A few applause
This blog has been recognized by Catwalk Queen (Kyra, my 17 yr.old calico says a blog about me? do they talk about earrings (her fav)? Thank you!
This award was genersously given by Stingativity. It carries a responsibility__ to give out 5 more. It was orginated by Writers Reviews. It will take me some time to edit the list down to 5.
Every little bit of recognition for these ramblings on this rather narrowly focused blog serves as encouragement. I send these posting out into cyber-ether. Are they just floating out there, does any one read them? I have hopes that is blog will be more interactive, with you all out there posting comments and responding. Glennis of Shibori Girl is a loyal commenter. If you read and learn or enjoy, could you please make a comment-- it is very sustaining. Makes it worth deleting hundreds of junk comments.
August 10, 2007
A tradtional Japanese red dye
Many traditional women's under kimonos were red, a lovely soft red. Some one asked how to achieve that red on a silk/cotton cloth.
This was traditionally a red from SAFFLOWER (Japanese-benibana, Carthemus tintorius).
It looks like this red although he says it is an aniline dye (an old vague term but does indicate synthetic dye). Very little is written about how to dye with it except in the appendix of Wada's book, Shibori, page 285.
The red color is rather fugitive and not used much outside of Japan because of other more fast natural red dyes; madder, kermes, lac and cochineal. The ephemeral nature of the dye appealed to the tradtional Japanese. The petals of the safflower contain many dyes; yellow and red are the predominate ones. To get to the red dye the yellow one must be extracted first and removed. Then one can extract the red dye for use. On the other hand this one dye source, safflower petals, can produce a whole range of colors from yellows,saffron, oranges, pinks, reds and browns. Dried safflower petals can be purchased at some Chinese herb shops.
Natural dyes have no affinity for any fiber one must use a mordant to bind the dyestuff to the fiber. The mixed fibers cotton and silk can both be dyed with safflower. I would probably use a alum-tannin-alum mordant to make sure that the cotton dyed well.
Not a dye for instant gratification. But red.
August 09, 2007
What people will do to wear red
image from NYTimes.
A mythical red dye, called Dragon's Blood , would cause the wearer's death. This appears as an integral part of one of Shakespeare's tragedies. A wronged woman gives the offending interloper a beautiful red robe dyed with Dragon's Blood, of course. I don't remember the actual outcome, just the intended one.
E.J.W. Barber, in her scholarly book, Prehistoric Textiles, says that Pliny classic writers used the Greek term, sandaraca, for a beautiful red mineral that was also used as a dye. The same mineral was used in paintings through the Renaissance. The mineral is realgar, a soft red arsenic compound. In Colors: The Story of Dyes and Pigments says that it was one the red pigments used by prehistorical Egyptians in paintings, cosmetics and medicines. Realgar was only mined by prisoners, another dimension to the dangers of mining. Arsenic can be absorbed through the skin and tiny amounts can give one a very beautiful complexion, as the Victorians knew. But arsenic accumulates in the body and continuous wearing of garments impregnated with realgar, though strikingly red, would make the wearer extremely sick with in a month.
Today, Okotex (sp?), a European organization that sets standards for dyed textiles has different standards for outerwear (little contact with the skin), intimate wear (worn on the skin), sportswear (sweat leaching possible) and babywear (saliva leaching possible). The fewest dyes are acceptable for babywear, natch. Many dyes contain heavy metals that can accumulate in the body if they make it in.
Processing of the dye can be as important as the dye itself in the effect on the body. Residual soda ash is quite irritating to the skin. The wash down procedure for fiber reactive dyes is the critical step in determining their safety. The wash down process is long and arduous, takes as long or longer than the dyeing. Standard industrial procedure is wash at a boil with ample agitation followed by extensive rinsing. Procion MX is the hardest to wash down.
Someone mentioned indigo rubbing off on the skin. Indigo is the oldest known dye and can be done so that it does not crock, it takes skill and care. The Tuareg, also known as the blue people, and others like excess indigo on the surface of the cloth because of the sheen that it gives but that is a cultural preference. We have a 5000+ year history of exposing people to indigo and haven't yet noticed any ill effects. Yet there was an incident in the early 1990's with Smith& Hawkens, or 7th Generation trying to be environmantally aware and having some sweaters hand-knit with some yarn dyed with natural indigo. The hand knitters broke out from the yarn, the skin on their hands and arms was a mess. Some more than others, but it was all natural, what could be the problem? Well indigo requires a high pH, achieved with wood ash, soda ash or lye, to dye. The yarn had not been properly neutralized and the residual alkalinity was causing all the trouble.
This entry was precipitated by some conversations on the dyerslist, where I also posted it.
August 07, 2007
ISS 2008
I found this announcement in the current issue of FIBERARTS:
In the Works: Shibori Symposium in France The 7th International Shibori Symposium will take place in October/November 2008 in France---taking advantage of the World Tie-dyed Textile Exhibition at the Museè du Quai Branly in Paris, the renowned Museè des Tissues et Arts Decoartifs in Lyon, and the resurgence of natural dyes in Provence. The World Shibori Network wants to hear from those interested in taking part or attending the symposium: 510.527.3432, iss08fr@gmail.com.
The World Shibori Network website, www.shibori.org, has no listing for it yet.
I have attend two of these ISS; 1999 in Santiago, Chile and 2002 in Harrogate, England. ISS in Chile was marvelous, I had pieces in the fashion show and wrote a review of it in the Surface Design Journal. Here are a few images from Santiago.
The ISS in Harrogate was smaller, but I did share an image of a banner I took there. I was one of the presenters in Harrogate. Grace and I worked hard on some new and innovative garments for the Fashion Show in Harrogate and it was a whole different affair (student run) than the event in Chile (very professional). Here is one outfit that we made:
This one has an Egyptian theme and is done with my usual shibori. We did another (sent 4 outfits altogether) that was more innovative. It is silk illusion (often used for bridal veils) and it was resisted in an arashi shibori technique but instead of dyeing the resisted silk, I burned it. It is now 'Singed Illusion'. Some of the carbonized silk is washed away and the pleats are set. The coloration is due to the burning. I thought that a dress made from Singed Illusion might be appropriate for a second wedding.
Both these images are poor, they were taken with film then scanned. The slides are great. Now all my images are digital, no more film.
But back to the ISS, Chile was fabulous, but in pre-hispanic Chile & Peru textiles were THE art form. Harrogate was interesting. I hope France will be grand. Lyon was the center of the silk industry in France.
August 02, 2007
Yarn Cleaner
In light of my recent problems, I have become aware of stray things in yarn. In the most recent issue of Textile World this ad caught my attention:
Let me quote some of the copy:
The YarnMaster... exceeds all previous expectations for comprehensive yarn cleaning of forgein matter and optimal online quality control....Intensive practical trails in various applications have proven that even white and transparent polypropylene in raw white spun yarns is reliably detected.
Polyproylene is a plastic. I guess more than one place has had a problem with incorpation of plastic in their yarns. Who knew!
May 31, 2007
New book
This cover is one of my zen garden shawls. My copy arrived today and a glance shows it to be quite tantalizing. I'll take it on my trip and report back.
April 19, 2007
Still in Minneapolis
A view of the American Craft Council Fine Craft Show in St.Paul, MN.
I have prolonged my stay in Minnesota to take a class with Pat Freiert. We have talked about Pat when here shibori exhibit went up. She was at the show too and said she was teaching a class on ORIGAMI SHIBORI based on a book she recently got from Japan. We both thought it could be fun and stimulating if I could stay and participate. Her classes are listed on her website.
I also met with the new events planner at the Textile Center about ARTWEAR IN MOTION 2007. They have extended the deadline for entries so you still have a chance to apply. They only accept garments, not accessories alone. The prospectus is available on line here. You can apply on line with digital images or send in slides. It does not have to be the actual garments you will send so you can send images you have then make some special outfits for October.
April 09, 2007
Does anyone have any experience with...
Does anyone have any expeience with People to People Ambassabor programs? I'm considering participating in one, "Fabric Art and Woven Traditions" but am a little hesitant because I've never heard of the organization.
If any of you have participated in an ambassador program I'd lve to hear about your experience and observations.
March 26, 2007
Exciting developments in Yellow Springs
Over the weekend Yellow Springs had a series of community participation event about envisioning a Yellow Springs Center for the Arts.
Yellow Springs is a village of 3700 people in a state, Ohio, with a population of 11 million. Yet I have seen list of the grants/awards of the Ohio Arts Council that had 7 Yellow Springers out of 21. Obviously we nurture the arts.
This envisioning was very exciting and even included a 12-step program. There is a website and the next phase will take 3 months.
November 09, 2006
Why wear an expensive scarf
My wish is that a person would see the ENTWINEMENTS scarves and just fall in love with them and then find a style that fits into their budget and lifestyle. But reality intrudes and people are different, every one, so have different motivation for buying our scarves.
Karina over at XOXO says:
Why should you spend $170.00 on a scarf when I can choose from a million other scarfs for a fraction of the price??Because… it means you can still wear your chain store coat, and steve madden boots and just tie this little piece of luxury around your neck and still look like a designer wearing fashionista with wads of cash.
Just think about it… either spend $170 on a scarf and that’s your designer piece your wearing…OR you can wear a $1000 pair of boots, or $1000 coat??
So you see, there is a method behind my madness…
October 15, 2006
Our Award
There are two mentions on the www of our award for the coppertail outfit: The Lincoln Center in Ft. Collins and Fiberarts magazine . It is also mentioned in the newst issue of Fiberarts Magazine, near the front. I don't know how they got it in so fast!
September 18, 2006
The Wool Gathering
The Wool Gathering happens each year at Young Jersey Dairy about a mile north of Yellow Springs. It is one of my favorite events; fall weather, lots of friends from my weaving days. I saw some of teammates from our Sheep to Shawl team ((at the state fair, 4 people and a sheep have two hours to make a shawl).
But the times change and it sure seems to me that the knitters are taking over the fiber world. This is how they do it.
Someone was asking me the color of naturally colored cotton, also refered to as Foxfiber for Sally Fox,( a real pioneer, see some of her strugles) and my answer was that they were all pale shades of brown altho' one is called green. Here you can see for yourself:
.
But my favorite part was watching the dogs herd. Amazing! the way they keep the herd together and how exicted they are to work. These were herding ducks (easier to transport) instead of sheep. They could take them over a bridge, thru a tunnel or up a ramp into a pool... just for fun.
August 01, 2006
A way to wear the small scarf
Entwinements makes and sells, only at craft fairs, what we call small scarves. We sell then for $55 each. These are ready made blanks we buy in plain white silk, usually 14" x 60", a normal scarf size. All our other scarves start out as really big pieces of silk. We then-- dye, wash and iron, pole wrap,discharge, overdye, sett the pleats, dry --just like all the other scarves in our production line. The finished pleated scarf looks much smaller, hence the name small scarf. I think they look very small altho' I have many patrons who like to wear them just like this.
Since all that silk is still there I think sometimes you want to show off more of the silk and colors. Here is very simple way to tie it that opens up the scarf.
One problem I had taking these pictures was needing my hands to tie the scarf and also needing them to take the pictures. I substituted pins for my hands in the tying process, probably better not to have my hands blocking part of your view anyhow.
Arrange the scarf around your neck as in the above picture then tie it in a simple overhand knot like so.
You can place the knot up tight against your neck or down low, where ever you want the embellishment to be.
Then somewhere along the edges or hem of the scarf you pinch out two little ears, think mouse ears.
I said little ears, if you get the whole scarf in the ears it doesn't work very well, it just becomes a bow.
Now you take these ears and tie them in a simple overhand knot, just like the one you did first.
This snapshot is not as good as seeing it done, but it is what we have today. Then you pull on the ears until it is tight against the first knot. Voila!
Usually the tighter you pull the more the scarf opens.
I think that this tie is magical for this small scarf. It is almost as difficult to control as magic too. If you don't like it just do it again, it will be different.
Where you make the ears does effect how big the flowery poof is and how long the tails are. If you are not liking what happens when you tie it, try making the little ears closer to the neck, this will usually make the poof part smaller and the tails longer. If you make the ears lower the poof gets bigger. Don't be afraid to pull tight when making the second knot, if it is not tight it will fall out just like a loosely tied bow would.
DISCLAIMER: This is for those of you who call me up on the telephone and want a verbal expanation of how to do this. That is a challenge I have not been able to meet, I hope this is more helpful. This is by no means the correct way or the only way to wear this scarf! Anyway you like is fine for your scarf.