<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
<rss version="2.0">
   <channel>
      <title>ENTWINEMENTS</title>
      <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/</link>
      <description>From the shibori studio of Karren K. Brito
in Yellow Springs Ohio, USA</description>
      <language>en</language>
      <copyright>Copyright 2009</copyright>
      <lastBuildDate>Thu, 27 Aug 2009 09:23:35 -0500</lastBuildDate>
      <generator>http://www.sixapart.com/movabletype/?v=3.2ysb5-20051201</generator>
      <docs>http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss</docs> 

            <item>
         <title>Sundye for September</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<!--[endif]-->  <p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center"><!--[if !supportEmptyParas]-->&nbsp;<!--[endif]--></p>  <blockquote><blockquote><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 18pt">27 September 2009</span></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center">Sunday, 1-6 PM</p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center">Entwinements Studio, 111 Allen, Yellow Springs OH 45387</p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center">Dye small projects in a fully equipped studio</p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center"><!--[if !supportEmptyParas]-->&nbsp;<!--[endif]--></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 24pt">Stamping on Cotton</span></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center"><!--[if !supportEmptyParas]-->&nbsp;<!--[endif]--></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center">We will use thickened fiber reactive dyes and stamps to print.<span>&nbsp; </span>I have many, many stamps but you can bring yours too (just put your name on them).<span>&nbsp; </span>Bring your cotton, rayon or other cellulose fiber or silk as a T-shirt*, yardage* or bag*.<span>&nbsp; </span>The cloth you want to print on should be white or light colored because dyes are transparent and you will see the ground color through the dye.<span>&nbsp; </span>Wash the cloth in hot water and dry before you bring it.<span>&nbsp; </span>Iron for a flat surface that prints clearly but wrinkled surfaces give interesting effects.<span>&nbsp; </span>I will have many colors in the fiber reactive dyes but the adventuresome can mix their own.<span>&nbsp; </span>You should have time to print 3 items , but that depends on the personality of the printer. The printed cloth can be taken home in a plastic bag and after 24 hours you can wash it and it will be ready to wear.</p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center"><!--[if !supportEmptyParas]-->&nbsp;<!--[endif]--></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center"><span>&nbsp;</span>Come and play in my colors.</p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center"><!--[if !supportEmptyParas]-->&nbsp;<!--[endif]--></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center">$25</p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center"><!--[if !supportEmptyParas]-->&nbsp;<!--[endif]--></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center">Limited to 5 participants</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center">&nbsp;</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 10pt">Registration is on a first come biases, you are not registered until I have your money. You can call or mail in your registration. Dyeing is messy, wear appropriate clothes and bring gloves.</span> <br /></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center"><!--[if !supportEmptyParas]-->&nbsp;<!--[endif]--></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center"><!--[if !supportEmptyParas]-->&nbsp;<!--[endif]--></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center"><!--[if !supportEmptyParas]-->&nbsp;<!--[endif]--></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: justify">*We can make a group order to <a target="_blank" href="http://www.dharmatrading.com/">Dharma Trading</a>, they have many scarves, T-shirts and clothing items and yardage that are ready to dye.<span>&nbsp; </span>I will need your registration , item(s) number and size and payment for the item(s) by the 15<sup>th</sup> to get them here in time.</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: justify">&nbsp;</p></blockquote></blockquote>                                    <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify"><!--[if !supportEmptyParas]-->&nbsp;<!--[endif]--></p>  <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify"><!--[if !supportEmptyParas]-->&nbsp;<!--[endif]--></p>  <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify"><!--[if !supportEmptyParas]-->&nbsp;<!--[endif]--></p>  <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: justify"><span style="font-size: 10pt">Registr</span></p>  <p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.5in; text-align: center"><!--[if !supportEmptyParas]-->&nbsp;<!--[endif]--></p>  <!--EndFragment--> ]]></description>
         <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/08/sundye_for_september.html</link>
         <guid>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/08/sundye_for_september.html</guid>
         <category>Classes</category>
         <pubDate>Thu, 27 Aug 2009 09:23:35 -0500</pubDate>
      </item>
            <item>
         <title>Stitched shibori, handwoven shibori</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>&nbsp;We will be doing hand stitching to create resists for dyeing in our&nbsp; first Silk Shibori Session starting on 28th of July. We will also do fold and clamp (<em>itajime</em>).<br /></p><p>There are many kinds of stitched designs and a few of the Japanese names are <em>mokume, ori-nui, maki-age</em>.&nbsp; I'm not trying to teach you Japanese but if you search this blog for these terms you will find&nbsp; much information.&nbsp; Also see pages 85-90 of my book.&nbsp; We even had a challange on <em>maki-age</em> and there is a lot of<a href="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/shibori/technique/makiage/"> info</a> and <a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/maki-age/pool/with/1808896484/">pics</a>. <br /></p><p>As of this moment all participants in the class are also weavers.&nbsp; Some stitched shibori&nbsp; can be done while weaving.&nbsp; <a href="http://www.squidoo.com/wovenshibori">Here</a> is an article about handwoven shibori if you have not seen much. The way you compress the cloth, and how to dye the resisted cloth are the same whether you have laid in the the gathering threads while weaving or used a needle after the cloth is woven.&nbsp; Patterns and spacing are related too. Hand stitched, not done on the loom, is more versatile.&nbsp; It is hard to create images on the loom.<br /></p><p>&nbsp;<a href="http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_qDqds-yeImc/RoB2-eEX0HI/AAAAAAAABvY/RddCgokLiPE/s320/weave_shibori09.jpg&amp;imgrefurl=http://wefttomyowndevices.blogspot.com/2007/06/woven-shibori.html&amp;usg=__-IfM2uUiuEbNFNyBMnsP-4Ern5s=&amp;h=240&amp;w=320&amp;sz=23&amp;hl=en&amp;start=20&amp;sig2=ZZxPQ7r0ZcXlajhzde5bKQ&amp;um=1&amp;tbnid=gu-bqtcOoVluEM:&amp;tbnh=89&amp;tbnw=118&amp;prev=/images%3Fq%3D%2522woven%2Bshibori%2522%26ndsp%3D18%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN%26start%3D18%26um%3D1&amp;ei=69NfSva8HcKylAfVxKXRCQ">Here</a> are pictures of a woven shibori project start to finish.&nbsp;&nbsp; Weavezine recently had an article about <a href="http://weavezine.com/content/woven-shibori-rigid-heddle-loom">woven shibori on a rigid heddle loom</a>.&nbsp; The weakest link in most of these projects is the dyeing of the shibori.&nbsp; I hope this short sesion in stitched shibori would lead to&nbsp; sucessful dyeing of any future&nbsp; shibori project, woven or not, undertaken.<br /></p><p>&nbsp;</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/07/stitched_shibori_woven_shibori.html</link>
         <guid>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/07/stitched_shibori_woven_shibori.html</guid>
         <category>Classes</category>
         <pubDate>Thu, 16 Jul 2009 12:04:25 -0500</pubDate>
      </item>
            <item>
         <title>SILK SHIBORI SUNDYES REARRANGED</title>
         <description><![CDATA[To accomodate prearanged events, it is vacation time after all, I have changed the dates and structure.<br />The instructions have been moved from Sunday to two week days.&nbsp; You still need time to do some stitching at home.&nbsp; We have 3 participants and it is a go.&nbsp; Room for 2 more people each week.<br /><br />We have chosen these dates:<br /><br />Session 1-stitched resists<br />Tuesday, 28 July. 7-9 PM -meet to receive materials and instruction on stitched resists<br />Sunday, 2 August , 1-6 PM- dye prepared samples<br /><br />Session 2-fold and clamp<br />Monday, 3 August- meet for more instruction, materials, trouble shooting<br />Sunday, 9 August-1-6PM -dyeing and photos<br /><br />They are not mutually exclusive; you can do more stitching for 9th and you can do some folding and clamping on the 2nd.The best way to do this is to take both sessions; you will learn things you might want to try again; but life is very congested for most people these days and if you want to take only one session you can.<br /><br />Both sessions: $140 with book, $120 if you already have my book.&nbsp; <br />One session: $90 with book, $70 if you already have my book.<br /><br /><br />]]></description>
         <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/07/silk_shibori_sundyes_rearranged.html</link>
         <guid>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/07/silk_shibori_sundyes_rearranged.html</guid>
         <category></category>
         <pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 19:15:59 -0500</pubDate>
      </item>
            <item>
         <title>Class Posponed</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>I knew that the silk shibori class was too close to the dates to get much enrollment but now I've had a request to do it later.&nbsp; So we will do it later, don't have dates yet.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>In August the Sundyes will be small projects completed in one day they will all be natural dyes: Osage Orange (a Yellow), Madder, and Indigo again.&nbsp; With this pallette a wide range of colors can be achieved, for example indigo over Osage Orange for greens and indigo over madder for purples.<br /></p>]]></description>
         <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/07/class_posponed.html</link>
         <guid>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/07/class_posponed.html</guid>
         <category>Classes</category>
         <pubDate>Thu, 09 Jul 2009 10:33:02 -0500</pubDate>
      </item>
            <item>
         <title>July Sundye</title>
         <description><![CDATA[&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <br /><br /><h1>Shibori on silk</h1><p>12, 19, 26 July (3 weeks)</p>&nbsp;fold &amp; clamp, stitched, capped<br />Meet at the Entwinements studio Sunday afternoon, 1-6PM<br />5 Students, $120 includes materials or $140 with book (autographed)<br /><br />No prior knowledge of shibori or dyeing is needed and all levels are welcome.&nbsp; We will explore the techniques that only require simple tools but can create many interesting patterns such as&nbsp; fold &amp; clamp (itajime), hand-stitching (mokume, ori-nui, etc.) and capping (maki-age).<br /><br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;Each student will receive 10 sample size pieces of silk to learn the techniques, a marking crayon and some other materials<br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;Entwinements has a large supply of templates and clamps for your use in fold and clamp<br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;Appropriate dye baths in colors requested by the students will be&nbsp; available the 2nd and 3rd weeks. Five colors each week.<br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;Each student can have additionally one large (about 1 yd.) piece of silk of their choice (from the samples) for a final project<br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;Each student will supply their own hand sewing tools and have a copy of SHIBORI: creating color and texture on silk.<br /><br />12&nbsp; JULY<br />Receive materials,&nbsp; Instructions and demonstrations on each technique.&nbsp; Look at samples and plan your work.&nbsp; Homework is to do the hand stitching.<br /><br />19 JULY<br />Bring stitched samples for dyeing.&nbsp; Other samples can be folded and clamped at the studio.&nbsp; We will then soak and dye the samples that are ready.&nbsp; There will be 5 requested colors and you can dye in each pot if you wish.&nbsp; Open samples and study&nbsp; the results.&nbsp; Plan final project.&nbsp;&nbsp; Stitching or other prep work can be done at home .<br /><br />26 JULY<br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;Final dye day; 5 more pots of colors the students request.&nbsp; You can dye in one or all pots.&nbsp; Open and display and photography of all projects.<br /><br /><br />You can see examples in the book or at entwinements.com.&nbsp; With only 5 participants we should be able to accommodate to everyone.&nbsp; Just let me know what you would like.&nbsp; Please email (karrenatentwinements.com, change the at to@) with any questions.<br /><br />]]></description>
         <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/07/july_sundye.html</link>
         <guid>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/07/july_sundye.html</guid>
         <category>Classes</category>
         <pubDate>Sat, 04 Jul 2009 20:09:11 -0500</pubDate>
      </item>
            <item>
         <title>Photo Group at Flickr for Sundyes</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>I have created a group at Flickr, <a target="_blank" href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/1120799@N20/pool/">Sundyes at Entwinements</a>, so that participants can upload photos.&nbsp; You need and invitation to become an uploading memeber, and I think that I have sent invitations&nbsp; to all participants.&nbsp; If you haven't received your invitations just let me know and I'll send you a new one.&nbsp; Everyone, even non-participants, can see the photos. They can be photos taken at the workshop or even more interesting is what your projects look like when after the workshop.&nbsp; What do those wonderful colors look like after they have dried and/or then been used in a project.&nbsp;</p><p> Please share!&nbsp; The more we see the more we learn.&nbsp; Sometimes it is easier to learn form someone elses' project because we&nbsp; didn't come with any expectations for their project and we can see it for what it really is.<br /></p>]]></description>
         <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/06/photo_group_at_flickr_for_sundyes.html</link>
         <guid>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/06/photo_group_at_flickr_for_sundyes.html</guid>
         <category>Classes</category>
         <pubDate>Wed, 17 Jun 2009 17:55:52 -0500</pubDate>
      </item>
            <item>
         <title>Indigo Sundye</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>I think people enjoyed painting their skeins last Sunday afternoon.&nbsp; A little color here, a little more there and soon everyone is into fun colors.</p><p><img width="400" height="300" border="0" align="left" src="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/images/Indian_indigo_dye_lump.jpg" /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Now on to indigo, the oldest and yet the hardest dye to use.&nbsp; There is already a lot on this blog about indigo since the Japanese love indigo so and it is the most forgiving dye to use for shibori, so it is great for shibori novices.&nbsp; Let's just look at some pics of indigo dyed cloth: </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;This is a T-shirt with a few lines of stitched shibori<img width="600" height="807" border="0" align="left" src="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/indigo%20ferns%28sm%29%20.jpg" /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><img width="600" height="807" border="0" align="left" src="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/indigo rosettes(sm).jpg" /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I hope you can see how many colors of indigo there are. </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I will be preparing the vat, all you have to do is bring your yarn or cloth ready to dye. The fiber should be cotton or other vegtable fiber to take the high pH of this vat. For those who want to know about making the indigo vat you can read instructions<a target="_blank" href="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2006/06/indigo.html"> here</a>. <br /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><img border="0" src="file:///Users/karrenK/Desktop/indigo%20ferns%28sm%29%20.jpg" /></p>]]></description>
         <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/06/indigo_sundye.html</link>
         <guid>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/06/indigo_sundye.html</guid>
         <category>Classes</category>
         <pubDate>Mon, 15 Jun 2009 19:40:23 -0500</pubDate>
      </item>
            <item>
         <title>Paint a skein</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>PAINTING SKEINS<br /><br />This is a more difficult project than the dip dyeing.&nbsp; I think that the fiber reactive dyes are more difficult, but the best option for cotton and other cellulostic fibers.<br /><br />You may paint a skein or a warp.&nbsp; We learned last week that when there are only 5 people in the workshop and when they&nbsp; co-operate, you can dye a lot more than 8 oz. of fiber.&nbsp; Every one will get to do their 8 oz. then if time and materials allow, you can do more.&nbsp; Come prepared for more.<br /><br />In painting you are putting colors side by side, not layering them.&nbsp; This means that you can put red and green beside each other with out getting the dreaded mud brown.<br /><br />However this is also what makes the process more difficult.&nbsp; You have painted one spot your favorite color and now what color do you put beside it?&nbsp; Any color in the world, this can be too many choices.&nbsp; What will it look like?<br /><br /><br />I suggest&nbsp; that you bring a picture, variegated yarn or natural object to help.&nbsp; We can then pick 3-5 colors from that design inspiration for the first painting experience.&nbsp; Once you have painted one skein, you might have more or new ideas about the second.&nbsp; &nbsp;<br /><br />Here is a picture that Carol sent me, I suspect it was taken with the Hubble Telescope up high:</p><p><br /><img width="400" height="580" border="0" align="left" src="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/images/nebulae.jpg" />&nbsp;</p><p><br /><br />I see periwinkle blue, oranges,&nbsp; dark browns and little bits of off-white.<br /><br /><br />So bring a magazine pictures, or a sample of a color combination to get started.</p><p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />So any skein will work.&nbsp; A warp will not muddle all the colors together when you weave, but put in lots of figure 8 ties to keep the warp in order.&nbsp; Normal size skeins will blend the colors together.&nbsp; If you make long skeins, say 10 yds. (a warping board will allow you to do this) you will get sucesive bands of colors.<br /><br />Anyhow, come with some damp cellulose yarn and have fun with colors!<br /><br /></p>]]></description>
         <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/06/paint_a_skein.html</link>
         <guid>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/06/paint_a_skein.html</guid>
         <category></category>
         <pubDate>Thu, 11 Jun 2009 12:28:21 -0500</pubDate>
      </item>
            <item>
         <title>Dip Dyeing --Sundyes</title>
         <description><![CDATA[We had a great time yesterday.&nbsp; Five women came, they were nice to each other, helped each other, learned from each other-- we had a great time.&nbsp; I forgot to take pictures, sorry.<br /><br />&nbsp;We did have one yarn that looked beautiful in the dye pot but washed out latter, so now we think it was not silk.&nbsp; This is a relatively common problem in dyeing workshops.&nbsp; I won't start speculation about why this happens because it could go on for far too long.&nbsp; Just double check before you invest a lot of time dyeing.&nbsp; Checking can be a simple as dipping a 2&quot; piece of the yarn in a dyepot for 5 min., remove and rinse.&nbsp;&nbsp; Or a <a href="http://www.fiber-images.com/Free_Things/Reference_Charts/free_reference_charts_fiber_content_guide.html">burn test</a>.<br /><br />&nbsp;<br /><br />&nbsp;We used Lanaset Dyes yesterday in six colors, suede, wheat, sage green, pink, bright blue and vivid purple.&nbsp; I had 20L of dye bath mixed up and we just ladled some out to use for our dyeing,&nbsp; the women asked how I mixed it up.&nbsp; Most of the time the bath additives are given in terms of WOF but I general determine the amount of additives by the volume of the bath, a standard industry procedure.&nbsp; Both work but yesterday it was more convenient to use the volume approach.<br /><br />&nbsp;<br /><br />I measure the volume of water.&nbsp; For each liter(about a quart) of water I added:<br /><br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; * 2g of Glaubers salt (sodium sulfate)<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; * 2g of a penetrant such as Albegal SET or Cibafluid LA <br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; * a pinch of sodium acetate<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; * 1mL 49% acetic acid<br /><br />Then I measure the pH, I want a pH of 4.5.&nbsp; If it is higher than 4.5 I add more acid-- drop by drop, if it is lower than 4.5 add teaspoons of sodium acetate.&nbsp; Measure the pH again.&nbsp; Keep adjusting until 4.5 is reached.<br /><br />&nbsp;<br /><br />The amount of acid needed will depend on your water, my water comes from a limestone aquifer and requires a lot of acid.&nbsp; You may need less.&nbsp; The sodium acetate and acetic acid are used to maintain the pH of the bath; it does not matter the absolute amount that you use, it just matters what the pH is.<br /><br />]]></description>
         <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/06/dip_dyeing_sundyes_1.html</link>
         <guid>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/06/dip_dyeing_sundyes_1.html</guid>
         <category>Classes</category>
         <pubDate>Mon, 08 Jun 2009 12:39:45 -0500</pubDate>
      </item>
            <item>
         <title>Dip dyeing is a form of immersion dyeing</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<strong>IMMERSION DYEING</strong> is the most common form of dyeing.&nbsp; You make a bath in a pot or vat with lots of water and the dissolved dye, then add the prepared fiber.&nbsp; Heat and stir until the dye is fixed to the fiber.&nbsp; Then the fiber is removed from the bath, rinsed and dried.&nbsp; In this process the dyeing and fixing are all one process. <br /><br />It is possible to spread the dissolved dye on the surface of the fiber, then go though a process to fix it to the fiber.&nbsp; This is called <strong>DIRECT APPLICATION</strong> and the dye can be applied to the prepared fiber by painting, silk screening, stamping, etc.&nbsp; Dyes are usually fixed by steaming&nbsp; but some can be fixed at a lower temperature for a longer time. After fixing the fibers are rinsed and dried.<br /><br />The <u>Dip Dye a Skein</u> workshop (7 June) will do immersion dyeing and the <u>Paint a Skein</u> workshop (14 June) will be direct application.<br /><br />]]></description>
         <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/dip_dyeing_is_a_form_of_immersion_dyeing.html</link>
         <guid>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/dip_dyeing_is_a_form_of_immersion_dyeing.html</guid>
         <category></category>
         <pubDate>Tue, 26 May 2009 20:16:24 -0500</pubDate>
      </item>
            <item>
         <title>What does dip dyeing look like?</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p><br />Every one has a different term for this kind of dyeing.&nbsp; Each term describes a different aspect of the process or results, so they all are correct in their own way.&nbsp; I call it dip dyeing which describes the process, others call it ombre (French for shaded), <a target="_blank" href="http://www.splendicity.com/sheknowsbest/files/2009/03/michael-kors-dip-dye-shirt.jpg">gradation dyeing&nbsp;</a> which is how it looks..&nbsp; It can be <a target="_blank" href="http://images2.lkimg.com/product-images--992e181f0b8a2920a2cc31eabda65b8d07534ea1-f7049c3a78578c58--jpg_sqthumb_large--womensdresses-splendid-ombre-v-neck-dress.jpg">monochromatic</a> or not.<br /><br />I am a visual person so here are some pics of one skein I dip dyed then wove.<br /><br />I started with a about 8oz. skein of <a href="http://www.fiber2yarn.com/catalog.php?category=Henrys%20Attic" target="_blank">Henry&rsquo;s Attic</a> PFD coconut silk.&nbsp; This yarn, 60%silk, 40% wool is fine and light weight yet the texture allows an open sett and the cloth to still be stable.&nbsp; Unfortunately this yarn has been discontinued and replaced with a <a href="http://www.fiber2yarn.com/catalog.php?item=1335" target="_blank">smooth yarn</a>.&nbsp; Anyhow here is the skein.</p><p><img width="600" height="509" border="0" align="left" src="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/images/coconut%20silk.jpg" /><br /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I must apologized for the shadows in the photo, I took the pics outdoors to get true colors and it was overcast.&nbsp; Just as I took the first picture we had what the English call a sunny interval.<br />I dyed the whole skein a sand color then I dipped a small part of the skein in a black dye pot.&nbsp; I did not get black, it is difficult to get a true black, but I got shades of grey from charcoal to light.&nbsp; On important point here is that I layer the black on top of the beige color, dyes are transparent and you can see both the sand and the black colors.&nbsp; Here is what is left of the skein after I dyed it and used it for a weaving project.&nbsp; <br /><img width="600" height="450" border="0" align="left" src="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/images/dip%20dye%20skein" /><br /><br /><br />&nbsp;Note that there are no sharp lines where a color change occurs, rather the grey starts pale and then becomes more intense the fades back to sand color gradually.&nbsp; No abrupt color changes but gentle shading from one color to the next.<br />I wove this on a rigid heddle loom, sett 10 epi, plain weave, and used just this yarn for the warp and weft.<br /><img width="600" height="450" border="0" align="left" src="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/images/dip%20dye%20detail.jpg" /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />I love this cloth!&nbsp; Random streaks of grey that cross each other. The hand of the cloth is nice too (you&rsquo;ll have to take my word until you can touch it your self), stable but not too dense or heavy. The cloth looks handwoven because it is hand-dyed. It has the look of <a target="_blank" href="http://srithreads.com/index.php/cPath/53_54_57_31">khadi</a> ( the cloth that played a part in <a target="_blank" href="http://www.copperwiki.org/index.php/Khadi">Gandhi&rsquo;s rebellion</a>, handspun, handwoven and hand-dyed) even if the scale is different.<br />The special yarn could be used in just the warp in which case the grey streaks would just be length- or warp-wise.&nbsp; Or just used in the weft and the streaks would be cross- or weft-wise.<br /></p><p>When you see a larger expanse of cloth you can see that the rhythm of the streaks of the grey is different in the warp and the weft.&nbsp; <br /><img width="600" height="450" border="0" align="left" src="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/images/dip%20dye%20cloth.jpg" /><br /><br />This is because they are taken from the same skein and each warp is much longer than the length of each weft shot or pick.<br />Then I finished the edges, hemmed with an embroidery floss to make a tiny towel.<br /><br /><img width="484" height="600" border="0" align="left" src="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/images/dipdye%20tt.jpg" /><br /><br /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;What is a tiny towel? It is an answer to the question, &ldquo;what are you making?&rdquo;&nbsp; In my mind I&rsquo;m just trying to make beautiful, sensuous cloth.&nbsp; Of course the edges have to be finished too.&nbsp; <br /><br />Now about the possibilities of this technique and your skein:&nbsp; <br /></p><blockquote><p>&nbsp;&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; You can bring a skein of 8 oz. or less.&nbsp; Must be an animal fiber to dye with the acid dyes we will use.&nbsp;&nbsp; This will allow everyone a chance to dye their skein during the workshop.&nbsp; Half a pound of yarn is enough for a small project.<br /></p></blockquote><blockquote>&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The yarn can be white, natural or a pale color.&nbsp; It is hard to over-dye black and see the results.&nbsp; Remember that dyes are transparent and you will see the first color through the second.&nbsp; If you start with yellow or a pale neutral color you can get just about any color except white by overdyeing.&nbsp; If you start with an bright purple&nbsp; the colors you can achieve by overdyeing are limited.<br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Your yarn should be in a <a href="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/making_skeins_for_dyeing.html" target="_blank">loose skein with many figure eight ties </a>to keep it from tangling during dyeing. It should be <a href="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/scour.html" target="_blank">scoured and ready to dye</a>.&nbsp; If you can bring it damp, from scouring or just soaking overnight, it will be ready for the dye pot.&nbsp; If it is dry it can take &frac12;-1 hr. to soak in water to get ready to dye.<br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I will have the resources to dye your&nbsp; yarn&nbsp; one color and then over-dye a part of it.&nbsp; In the example above the whole skein was dyed sand then dip dyed&nbsp; in black.&nbsp; Or you can just dip dye the skein to get white and one color (<a target="_blank" href="https://housewarps.com/second2.php?id_mnu=8&amp;id=68&amp;key=HAND%20/%20DISH%20TOWEL">example in white and red</a>) or just one color on top of your pale colored yarn.&nbsp; </blockquote><p>&nbsp;</p><p>There are many possibilities with this dyeing.&nbsp; You could have the dip-dyed yarn in only bands or stripes.&nbsp; If the yarn was divided into two skeins both could be dyed the base color and only one skein dip dyed and you would have coordinating skeins.&nbsp; I&rsquo;ve made a short warp with a well secured cross and many figure eight ties that I will dye.&nbsp; The result will be less random and lead to a graduated color in the whole piece.&nbsp; We&rsquo;ll see.&nbsp; What <a href="http://z.about.com/d/shoes/1/0/Y/-/1/ombre_shoes.jpg">fun possibilities</a>!<br /><br />TO CLASS PARTICIPANTS:Before you come I ask you to email me&nbsp; your ideas on what color scheme you would like to dye.&nbsp; Something like shades of blue, white with sunflower yellow or wheat with moss green.&nbsp; This will give me time to mix the colors and have some color you might like when you arrive.&nbsp; I expect you will want to try some thing different as you see others results.&nbsp; It is just nice to have a starting point that reflects more than my taste.<br /><br />&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/what_does_dip_dyeing_look_like.html</link>
         <guid>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/what_does_dip_dyeing_look_like.html</guid>
         <category>Classes</category>
         <pubDate>Mon, 25 May 2009 17:05:32 -0500</pubDate>
      </item>
            <item>
         <title>Acid dyes for animal fibers</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Our 7 June Sundye will use acid dyes.&nbsp; Acid dyes will only color animal fibers and nylon because of their similar chemistries.&nbsp; Wool is an animal fiber but what else is?&nbsp; Here are some description from the <a target="_blank" href="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/index.html">Year of the Natural Fiber</a> and links for those who like to know more:</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;<a href="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/alpaca.html"><img width="80" height="80" border="0" class="foto" alt="alpaca" src="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/images/alpaca-p.jpg" /></a><strong>Alpaca wool</strong> - Alpaca is used to make high-end luxury fabrics, with world production estimated at around <span class="nobr">5 000</span> tonnes a year</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><blockquote><p><a href="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/camel.html"><img width="80" height="80" border="0" class="foto" alt="camel" src="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/images/camel-p.jpg" /></a><strong>Angora wool</strong> - The silky white wool of the Angora rabbit is very fine and soft, and used in high quality knitwear</p></blockquote><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><a href="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/camel.html"><img width="80" height="80" border="0" src="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/images/camel-p.jpg" alt="camel" class="foto" /></a><strong>Camel hair</strong> - The best fibre is found on the Bactrian camels of Mongolia  and Inner Mongolia, and baby camel hair is the finest and softest&nbsp;<a href="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/camel.html" /></p><blockquote><blockquote><p>&nbsp;</p><p> </p> <p> </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p> </p> <p> </p><p> </p> <blockquote><p><a href="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/cashmere.html"><img width="80" height="80" border="0" src="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/images/cashmere-p.jpg" alt="cashmere" class="foto" /></a> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><a href="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/cashmere.html"><strong>Cashmere</strong> - Cashmere is exceptionally soft to the touch owing tothe structure of </a><a href="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/cashmere.html">its fibres and has great insulation properties without being bulky</a></p><p><a href="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/mohair.html"><img width="80" height="80" border="0" class="foto" alt="mohair" src="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/images/mohair-p.jpg" /></a></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><a href="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/mohair.html"><strong>Mohair</strong> - White, very fine and silky, mohair is noted for its softness, brightness and receptiveness to rich dyes</a></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><a href="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/silk.html"><img width="80" height="80" border="0" class="foto" alt="silk" src="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/images/silk-p.jpg" /></a><a target="_blank" href="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/silk.html"><strong>Silk</strong> - Developed in ancient China, where its use was reserved for royalty, silk remains the &quot;queen of fabrics&quot;</a></p><p>&nbsp;<a href="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/wool.html"><img width="80" height="80" border="0" src="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/images/wool-p.jpg" alt="wool" class="foto" /></a></p><p><a href="http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/wool.html"><strong>Wool</strong> - Limited supply and exceptional characteristics have made wool the world's premier textile fibre</a></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote><p>&nbsp;You can bring any of these fibers to dye with acid dyes or nylon.&nbsp; Other fibers will not dye with these dyes.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The following week in Paint a Skein will will work with different dyes that color cotton and other cellulose fibers. &nbsp; <br /></p>]]></description>
         <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/acid_dyes_for_animal_fibers.html</link>
         <guid>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/acid_dyes_for_animal_fibers.html</guid>
         <category>Classes</category>
         <pubDate>Sat, 23 May 2009 22:18:35 -0500</pubDate>
      </item>
            <item>
         <title>Scour</title>
         <description><![CDATA[Scouring fibers is the process of removing waxes, oils, dirt, finishes and anything else that can interfere with dye uptake.&nbsp; Scouring is the most important step to good dyeing.&nbsp; If there are blotches of oils or perspiration in the fibers the dye will be a different color in those areas.&nbsp; At the end of the scouring process the fiber should be free of interfering chemicals and nearly white.&nbsp; Fibers in this condition are called Prepared For Dyeing or PFD.<br /><br />Think of scouring as a vigorous washing that removes all contaminates and leaves behind no residue.&nbsp; You can do it yourself or you can have some one else do it.<br /><br />I could write a lot about scouring and still not cover your situation, so I&rsquo;m going to try to keep it simple for beginning dyers.<br /><blockquote>1.&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;You can just wash your yarn and hope it works.&nbsp; This works 80%&nbsp; of the time with purchased white or natural yarn.<br />2.&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;You can buy yarn that is PFD.<br />3.&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;You can do a true scour, this is best when you know or suspect the yarn is dirty.<br /></blockquote><br />1.JUST WASH YOUR YARN<br />After you have made your yarn into a skein and secured it with many loose figure eight ties you can wash it.&nbsp; The choice of detergent is important here; home laundry detergents can have bluing, optical whiteners and&nbsp; perfume that they leave behind to interfere with the dyeing. We have specialized detergents for this: <a href="http://www.prochemicalanddye.com/store/product.php?productid=16188&amp;cat=249&amp;page=2" target="_blank">Synthrapol</a> and <a href="http://www.vetamerica.com/browseproducts/Orvus-Paste-Soap-(Jar)-7.5lb.html" target="_blank">Orvus Paste </a>(you can get a small amount of these from me). Otherwise choose the simplest detergent you can get your hands on; no perfumes, should be colorless to pale yellow- baby shampoo for example.&nbsp; Wash in hot water with a bit of detergent.&nbsp; If you see dirt come out into the wash water, wash again.&nbsp; Rinse 3-5 times to make sure all the detergent is gone. Wring.&nbsp; No need to dry before dyeing, this first step of dyeing is to wet out the fiber.<br /><br /><br />2. BUY PFD YARN.<br />You can buy fibers that are commercially scoured or scoured and bleached that are labeled PFD.&nbsp; These should be fine if they have not been soiled waiting for dyeing. Buying PFD is a time and hassle saver. <br /><br />You can buy yarn that is ready to dye from your local hand-spinner.&nbsp; She usually has cleaned the wool before spinning and she can tell you exactly what she did and how much lanolin is left in the wool.&nbsp; Tell her you want to dye it&nbsp; and does she think it needs to be washed again?<br /><br />I know of two manufactures that make a wide range of PFD yarns that are available in many retail stores: <a href="       http://www.fiber2yarn.com/catalog.php?category=Henrys%20Attic%20Yarn" target="_blank">Henry&rsquo;s Attic</a> ( most of their yarns are PFD) and <a href="http://brownsheep.com/ohio.htm#o" target="_blank">Brown Sheep Company</a> (avoid the Superwash wool and colored yarns). Visit their websites to find a retailer near you.&nbsp; There are other sources too, but maybe have a more limited range.&nbsp; White spun silk yarns are usually PFD as are white or natural perle cottons. The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rayon" target="_blank">rayons</a> and other regenerated cellulose fibers such as <a href="http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/5000/5572.html" target="_blank">Tencel</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bamboo_fiber" target="_blank">bamboo</a>, <a href="http://www.mielkesfarm.com/manmadef.htm" target="_blank">soy silk etc</a>. are pretty clean&nbsp; because of the manufacturing process.&nbsp; I also have some extra PDF yarns I know dye well that you can buy, including Henry&rsquo;s Attic Coconut Silk (a textured silk/wool yarn), call if you want to see what I have. <br /><br /><br />3.&nbsp; A TRUE SCOUR<br />The scouring process differs by what you are trying to remove.&nbsp; Cotton comes with naturally occurring waxes and pectins that are difficult to remove. Wool comes with vegetable matter, burrs and such that get caught in the fleece, and lanolin produced by the animal. Reeled silk has both the silk fiber, fibroin, and the gum, sericin.&nbsp; The sericin has been removed in spun yarn and all supple silk yarns. Tussah silk and linen are challenging to prepare for dyeing.<br /><br />Commercial yarns may be bleached, or have bluing or optical whiteners added, all&nbsp; to make them appear whiter.&nbsp; Any chemicals or residue left in the yarn can interfere with dyeing. Finishes, wash-and-wear, wrinkle resistant, mercerized, singed, flame retardant, water repellent, water proof, antistatic finish, peach finish and stain resistant, can be a problem. Some&nbsp; of these, the wash-n-wear, wrinkle and stain resistant ones,&nbsp; are a plastic or resin type coating on the fibers and are quite effective at blocking the dye from penetrating the fibers.&nbsp; I find it best to avoid&nbsp; these finishes.&nbsp; Other process, mercerizing, singeing, degumming, pre-shrinking , do not leave chemicals behind to block the dye penetration but they do effect the color.&nbsp; Mercerized cotton&nbsp; will dye a much more brilliant, lustrous color than the same cotton unmercerized.&nbsp; Degummed silk will dye lighter than the same silk with the gum; the gum is a protein too and also dyes with the protein silk fiber. <br /><br /><br />Hand-spinners deal with cleaning fibers and getting it ready for spinning and are a great source of information. The more you know about what you are trying to remove the easier it will be. &nbsp;<br /><br />Here is a general scour process:<br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;Soak the yarn in water to cover for 30 min. or more.<br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;Use a dyepot for the actual scour.<br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;Add 1 or 2 gallons of water, enough to cover the yarn and allow it to move freely in the bath.<br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;Add 1 Tbsp. <a target="_blank" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soda_ash">soda ash</a> and &frac12; tsp. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.prochemicalanddye.com/store/product.php?productid=16188&amp;cat=249&amp;page=2">Synthrapol </a>for each gallon of water. <br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;Add yarn and heat to boiling. Move the yarn gently in the bath so that all parts of the yarn are exposed to the hot bath.<br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;Simmer 10 min. for wool and 30 min. for cotton.<br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;Remove cotton from the hot bath. To avoid felting wool, allow it to cool to warm and remove to a rinse that is the same warm temperature.<br />&bull;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;Rinse the yarn 3-5 times.&nbsp; Cotton can be wrung and is ready for use.&nbsp; Wool needs a 20 min. soak in a vinegar bath (1Tbsp. white vinegar per gallon) then wrung.<br /><br />No need to dry before dyeing, this first step of dyeing is to wet out the fiber.<br />If you have questions feel free to contact me directly.<br /><br /><br /><br />]]></description>
         <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/scour.html</link>
         <guid>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/scour.html</guid>
         <category>Classes</category>
         <pubDate>Sun, 17 May 2009 23:44:59 -0500</pubDate>
      </item>
            <item>
         <title>Making skeins for dyeing</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Yarn is dyed in my studio in skein form.&nbsp; This loose open form can go into the dyepot and all parts can get dyed. Few purchased yarns are in this skein form, so how do you rewind the yarn into a skein?</p><p>Spinners do this often and have tools to help.&nbsp; The tools are niddy noddys and skein winders but you don't need a tool to do it a few times. You can use tools you might have for warping, a board or pegs,&nbsp; a helper or a chair back.<br /></p><p>Here is some&nbsp; help:</p><ul><li><p class="Heading1a"><a target="_blank" href="http://www.ehow.com/how_2087733_wind-yarn-skein.html">How to Wind Yarn Into a Skein</a> <br /></p></li><li><p><a target="_blank" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4v4lM0oozc">Finishing Yarn and Wrapping a Skein - Tutorial</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; A You Tube video using a chair and making the figure&nbsp; <strong>8</strong> ties.<br /></p></li><li><p><a target="_blank" href="http://www.joyofhandspinning.com/yarn-niddyNoddy.shtml">Making A Skein of Yarn With A Niddy Noddy</a>&nbsp; This has a video that is helpful if you have never seen it done</p></li></ul><p>When I have finished winding the skein I tie the two ends together in a bow.&nbsp; The bigger the bow the easier it is to find the end of the yarn when you go to use it. &nbsp;</p><p>To control the yarns strands in the skein and keep them from tangling&nbsp; figure 8 ties are inserted. Make sure these ties are very loose and there are 6 or more.&nbsp; When you move the skiens in water or the dyebath&nbsp; they can tangle if not well controlled with the figure <strong>8</strong> ties<img border="0" title="Frown" alt="Frown" src="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/mt-static/plugins/TinyMCE/jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-frown.gif" />.</p><p>If you have yarn in pull out skeins or balls it can be helpful to put it in a bowl or large jar on the floor&nbsp; to free your hands for winding.<br /></p>]]></description>
         <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/making_skeins_for_dyeing.html</link>
         <guid>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/making_skeins_for_dyeing.html</guid>
         <category>Classes</category>
         <pubDate>Wed, 13 May 2009 07:06:56 -0500</pubDate>
      </item>
            <item>
         <title>Classes--SUNDYES</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Dye small projects in a fully equipped studio, Sundays, 1-6 PM at the Entwinements Studio,Yellow Springs OH<br />$15 in advance, $25 at the door. &nbsp;&nbsp; Limit 10 participants&nbsp; <br /></p><p>Registration is on a first come biases, you are not registered until I have your money. You can call or email,&nbsp; karren at entwinemnets.com,&nbsp; your registration. </p><p>Dyeing is messy, wear appropriate clothes and bring gloves.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>7 June 2009 </p><h1>Dip dye a skein</h1>Bring a <a target="_blank" href="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/making_skeins_for_dyeing.html">skein</a> of scoured*, damp yarn and we will dye it one color&nbsp; and then dip dye it to add another color to part of the skein.&nbsp; The first color will be lighter than the second.&nbsp; We will use acid dyes.&nbsp; You bring one skein 8 oz. or less of wool, silk, nylon or other protein fiber, white or natural.&nbsp; You will have a lovely skein to knit or weave that will have&nbsp; a color variation to give character to the end project.<br /><br />14 June 2009 <br /><h1>Paint a skein</h1>Bring a <a target="_blank" href="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/making_skeins_for_dyeing.html">skein</a> of scoured*, damp yarn and paint it&nbsp; with vibrant colors of your choice. Take home a damp painted skein, batch it overnight and wash it the next day.&nbsp; We will work with fiber reactive dyes.&nbsp; You bring one skein 8 oz. or less,&nbsp; of cotton, rayon or other cellulose&nbsp; fiber. White is easiest but other pale colors can work. Give some thought to the color combination you would like to create, bring a picture or&nbsp; something to guide you. <br /><br /><br /><br />21 June 2009<br /><h1><a href="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2006/06/indigo.html" target="_blank">Indigo Vat</a></h1>I will prepare indigo vats and you can bring cotton yarn, in a <a target="_blank" href="http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/making_skeins_for_dyeing.html">skein</a>, or cloth to dip in it.&nbsp; It takes various dips to build up a darker color of indigo blue so bring your patience.&nbsp;&nbsp; You can try some shibori, but you will have to be last to dip because the shibori pieces introduce a lot of air into the vat.&nbsp; I will set the vat up for cellulose so bring cotton, linen, ramie, rayon, anything made of cellulose fibers.&nbsp; All fibers should be scoured* and ready for dyeing.&nbsp; The yarn can be damp (dry yarn will take at least &frac12; hr. to wett out before dyeing).&nbsp; Scoured cloth can be damp or dry.&nbsp; I can instruct you in simple shibori resists and have most of the tools to make the resists here. dry cloth works best for shibori.&nbsp; If you want to make sewn or hand stitched resists bring hand sewing tools and very strong thread such as carpet, upholstery or sail thread.&nbsp; You are limited to 8 oz. of fiber.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />]]></description>
         <link>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/classessundyes_1.html</link>
         <guid>http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/2009/05/classessundyes_1.html</guid>
         <category>Classes</category>
         <pubDate>Tue, 12 May 2009 14:53:24 -0500</pubDate>
      </item>
      
   </channel>
</rss>
