How an ENTWINEMENTS scarf is made-6
This is the final entry on how I make ENTWINEMENTS scarves. The previous steps 1, 2, 3 , 4 and 5 have been published here in the blog and are discussed at greater length in my book, SHIBORI: creating color and texture on silk.
All the poles were dry when I checked them this morning. Sometimes in high humidity they don't dry overnight, but that is the exception.

Also they look good; the colors in the over-dyes are smooth and bright. Purple Passion is one of our bright, Caribbean colors. Should have named it Purple Polka in keeping with our dance theme, too late now. The purple itself is bright, and now the over- dyes seem bright too. Open we will see some of the discharge color, which is never bright, but hopefully the proportion of the dull discharge color is right so that the whole piece retains its brightness.
I have built a little stand to unwind the poles with a ball winder to collect the string as it comes off.

If you go fast enough with the crank, the string balloons out from the silk ( sorry, we all have our 10-yr. old moments). Anyhow it only takes a moment to unwrap the poles. When the silk comes off the pole side should still be all purple and the up side the colors of the over-dyes.

The pole side is to the left and the over-dye side to the right. Now the next question is did I get it discharged right; too much and you loose the purple (this did not happen because the back side is still all purple) and too little discharge and all the over dye colors have purple in them. As one opens the pleats you can see the original purple deep in the valleys of the pleats.

The bright yellows mean that I was not over-dyeing purple, that would give a very muddy color.
Now I look at the other side to see if the over-dyes penetrated thru all the layers. The over all effect is not just the upper most layer which is what you see on the top side. As I bend open the pleats on the pole or purple side I do see the bright colors peeking thru.

This is the moment of truth. No matter how many times you have done this color there are always uncontrolled parts. Once the piece looks good, a logo-- this serves as my signature on a piece--is attached. The logo is about the size of a large bead and is sewn on with some seed beads.

Here is the completed piece:

You can see that the overall color is still bright and purple. You can see that it is much smaller then when it was white silk and in fact is a nice size to throw over your shoulder.
Now arashi shibori, this process, has most often been used to create patterns/designs on cloth rather than texture. So I have stretched out part of this scarf so that you can see the type of design it creates. The piece is too big for me to get a photo of the entire piece stretched out, you are seeing about a yard of fabric.

It is not flat either so the transitions from one color to another are not visible. If I were doing arashi shibori for patterning and not pleats I would do several things differently. First I could take it off the pole before it is dry. But I would change the design too, what looks best in a pleated scarf is not the same that makes the most interesting pattern.
In part 1 of this series I said that the hems, machine-made and hand-made looked about the same after pleating. I have never had any one notice the difference, not even Grace. Here are both for your evaluation:

The upper or green hem is machine made and the lower on has hand-rolled hems on both sides. Once pleated I don't think there is a noticible difference.
Comments
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