Work on the Sting Ray Outfit
Grace worked on the patterns and brought them to the studio.

You can see her pinning the muslin for the jacket on the mannequin. The jacket will be made from black leather, including the sting ray leather, and the dress will be black silk with white shibori patterning
.
The design started with the sting ray leather piece which we decided would be in the center back.(We we also trying different placement for the shibori pattern on the dress)

The curves of the sting ray leather indicated the shape of adjacent pieces. 
But we wanted the over all design to be asymmetrical so the collar on one side goes down into the peplum. Both have a waviness that suggests the movement of the sting ray thru the water.

We decided to reduce the left side collar to accentuate the difference. The sleeves and cuffs still need work. The dress to be worn under the leather. We wanted a flirty, feminine dress to contrast with the leather jacket. The dress will be made of the silk matelasse with the shibori stripes and silk chiffon or organza. The ruffles needed to wave like the peplum. Grace cut the pattern and then made a muslin (in some small overall print that was laying around). The organza worked better than chiffon for the waves.

We changed the top so that the side fronts are separate pieces, that makes it easier to put some shibori patterning there. A surprise when the jacket comes off. Now the shibori patterning is an engineered design, that is the placement is dictated by the placement on the garment. So I am using a string to layout the lines on the skirt pattern.

The line on the top piece were a little less clear. A curved line would probably looks best but the stitch pattern is based on even spacing, the curve will change the spacing. A straight line design, easier to make , might go off the pieces. I'll just do both.

Now to cut the fabric and layout the stitching lines on the white cloth. First the skirt.

Then the top, two different designs.

Next each line of shibori patterning is folded and marked with a template. The stitching patterning is up at this dot down between... so the marks are required.

Then stitch and gather each line.

All the stitching on one piece is completed before gathering, just so you can see the next line. With this stitching pattern it gathers into scallops. It is then gather as tight as possible and tied off, ready for dyeing.

Off to complete the rest of the stitching.
Comments
Posted by: HAAFIL | October 30, 2007 01:51 AM